As we have now done several times on our trip, we put together some last minute plans and found ourselves in a situation that exceeded expectations. We flew to Italy to visit with friends who live in Monte di Procida, a small town about 40 minutes outside of Naples. We had planned to stay for the weekend, but lingered there for over a week, gratefully accepting as much hospitality as our hosts could possibly offer*.
Entrance to Stappo
Soaking up the Mediterranean lifestyle, we spent leisurely mornings drinking caffe, walking to the market to pick up something for breakfast or lunch (while muddling through bad Italian, which is how we ended up with a kilo of tomatoes because I didn’t know the word for “half”), and drinking in the sun and the view. In the evening we would all have dinner together, either at home or out at places we likely wouldn’t have found on our own. The most memorable place our friends shared with us is a small place called Stappo.
What is special about Stappo is not the wine or the food, though both are gloriously delicious. It is unique and fantastic because of Pasquale and Consilia, who own and run it. You can see the pride that they take in the small “enogusto club” as it calls itself, and as soon as you walk in you feel like you’ve been invited over by friends. In fact, this is probably the case, as technically Stappo is a members only club, which means everyone inside belongs, not because they have purchased a membership (there’s no such thing) but because they have been brought in by friends and made part of the family. As our new friend Jason said, “it’s my Italian Cheers.” It is a place where everybody knows your name.
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 View from Esperia restaurant |
 Enjoying the rooftop patio |
We spent several evenings at Stappo, enjoying the wine, food, and the company of our friends, old and new. Pasquale, a convivial and gracious host, made it the perfect ending to many great days. One night while discussing with him how wonderful of a time we were having – what’s not to love about lazy days, pastel homes on rocky cliffs, sunshine, and the bright blue sea – he taught us a very apt expression. “You’ve found the sugar” he said, “the sweetest part of life.”
The sweetness of Monte di Procida
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 Restaurant on Ischia. You dock your boat, and they come over with a menu and then deliver the food directly to your boat. |
Our time in Monte di Procida very much was the sugar, but it reinforced that the most memorable and meaningful parts of our trip are not any sights we have seen or particular places we have visited. Hands down our best memories and what we are excited to talk about are the people we have met. Had we done exactly the same activities, without the people that we met, they would have been a bit hollow, albeit still fun. The fondness comes from the warmth and genuine conversations we had – offers to drive Davide’s snazzy little Fiat while getting slaughtered in a game of rooftop beanbag toss, learning about Megan’s exciting upcoming travel plans over lunch at Esperia, shooting the breeze and talking movie taste with Jason and others while on a boat in Med, and learning interesting Italian phrases from Pasquale. It’s the network we’re creating that I’ll remember, and also the foundation I can build on in the future (and I certainly plan to). If anyone we’ve met ever finds themselves where we are – look us up and let us know so we can repay the kindness and share our little corner of the world, and maybe a little sugar.
*In fact, we headed out because it was time for the next adventure, but also in part because they had another friend coming in to town, who had dibs on the room.
 View of Vesuvio from Pompeii |
 Ruins at Ercolano. The grass is where the sea used to reach, and inside each small space there are skeletons from when people tried to hide here during the eruption. |
 Fresco in Ercolano that survived the eruption and earthquakes. |
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